![]() Check the panel product details to see if you can alter the finish. Tin ceiling tiles can be purchased in various colors and painted or powder-coated to match your individual style preferences. Genuine tin ceilings or artisan-designed tiles made from more expensive metals like copper cost on the higher end at over $10 per square foot, while foam tiles designed and painted to look like plaster or metal cost as little as $1 per square foot. Drop ceiling panels are commonly constructed of not only tin, but also aluminum, copper, steel mineral fiber, foam, or PVC manufactured and coated to look like metal. These include pressed, punched, reclaimed, or faux tin panels. The tin panel type you select will factor into the overall cost of the project. Homeowners pay a pro $60 to $90 per hour on average for ceiling repair costs and $10 to $25 per square foot for professional mold removal costs. For example, if the ceiling is cracked, sagging, has water damage, or has a mold problem, you’ll have to hire a local ceiling repair contractor or mold removal service near you before you start on the installation. If the ceiling where you’re placing your tin tiles is in poor condition, there will be additional costs associated with fixing it before you can install the grid or the tin. The larger the square footage, the more you’ll pay for tiles. Ceiling Size and ConditionĪt $5.50 per square foot on average, a 48-square-foot area costs $260 for the tiles. The cost of a tin ceiling can fluctuate depending on how it’s set up, the materials you choose, and the pro you hire. Before applying the second coat of paint, we caulked all exposed edges, including where the tin abut the countertop, with a paintable latex caulk and then painted over it.Find hiring guides, material costs, expert advice, how-to's and more. ![]() When the primer was dry, we sanded it, wiped off the dust and applied two coats of a semigloss oil-based enamel, again using a roller and paintbrush. Instead, we followed the pattern, cutting the tin at the top of the square so the edge would be smooth and natural looking.įor the best results, follow the pattern wherever possible, and position the sheets so the cut edges are hidden in corners.Īfter we fastened all the tin in place, we wiped it down with a paint thinner in case there was any oil on it then we let the thinner dry and applied oil-based primer (Kilz) with a roller and paintbrush. If we had cut the tin to the same height as the part that's underneath the cabinet, we would have had to cut through a square, leaving an ugly edge at the top. In photo 7 you can see how the tin extends beyond the upper cabinet (to the edge of the countertop). Your pattern will dictate where the tin stops on the wall when there is no upper cabinet. When you have the sheet in position, nail it in place ( photo 6 ) then use a nail set to drive the heads flush with the tin ( photo 7 ). If you like, you could cover the edges with small moldings. We decided to butt the factory-finished edge against the countertop so the cut edge would be hidden by the underside of the cabinets. The first step is to cut the tin to size ( photos 1-3).Īpply construction adhesive ( photo 4 ) then position the tin on the wall ( photo 5 ). We ordered the tin (normally used on ceilings) by mail from Chelsea Decorative Metal Co. Replacing the brown-and-gold wall tile in the original kitchen with a light-colored backsplash contributed significantly to lightening and updating the room, and because we used pressed tin rather than the usual ceramic tile, the backsplash is also an interesting decorating element. For a simple, subtle, cost-effective alternative to tile, try pressed tin
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